Friday, 7 August 1998.
Climber's Ranch, Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming.
[ Climbing speak approaching! ]
The City is an amazing place. Incredible numbers of really excellent climbs. I lead a few gear crack climbs, but spent most of my time on bolted face climbs. As a result my finger tips are a little raw right now, but they'll toughen up in time.
The rock is very rough, with excellent friction. Both the appearance and the feel is similar to Joshua Tree. I lead a couple of climbs (Double Vision 5.10a, Just Another Pretty Face 5.10d) that were totally edge free. You know those dish pockets you hate at the gym? Well there were on the routes in spades. Of course, I lead what Al Stebbins calls the best face climb in North America: Tribal Boundaries (5.10a), very nice and sustaned edging. I had fun on the overhanging climbs like Collosus (5.10c) and an unnamed 5.10c on the Decadence wall. I lead a few gear climbs, the best was Bloody Fingers (5.10a) and kept my fingers intact. I finished the trip with Fall Line (5.10c) and the "wimp" start to the very long 17 bolt, Red Tail (5.10d). I tried the direct start (5.11a) and after the third fall, I wimped out. On the way down I set a top rope and of course figured out the moves.
I lead, followed and top roped a bunch of other things, but those were the high points. The Winds and the Tetons will provide a major change from bolt clipping!
[ Currently waiting for the rest of the Wind River crew to arrive at the Climber's Ranch in the Tetons. ]